Savor the Flavors of a True Local Secret

On Thursdays, Kalkan smells of sizzling dough. Follow it uphill and you'll find the weekly market — and the women who have rolled gözleme here for decades.

Stalls fill the square from early morning: figs and pomegranates from the valley, mountain thyme honey, olives cured three different ways, and cotton peştemal towels stacked in every colour. Go early, before the heat, and bring cash — most sellers don't take cards.

Our favourite stop is at the back, under the plane tree, where spinach-and-cheese gözleme comes straight off the iron plate. Eat it standing up, with a glass of ayran, and then go back for one with potato.